Q. We were hoping to put down laminate flooring but have been told we'd have to heat the floor at all times as stepping on it if it's been exposed to freezing temperatures could cause it to crack (shatter?) open. Real hardwood flooring is expensive and we don't really want carpet or linoleom. Any suggestions or advice?

A. Most quality laminates are meant to serve interiors which are not environmentally controlled all year long. You just have to make sure you're getting the good stuff. Ask your seller about the laminate floor's AC rating, to make sure it's likely to be durable enough for what you've got in mind. For a residence, you shouldn't settle for less than an AC3 rating. Generally, the fiberboard core of a quality laminate floor will help it to weather temperature changes. Also, you're going to want to choose a type of flooring which is low-maintenance for a cottage. You don't want to be spending too much time with refinishing and waxing flooring when you're meant to be relaxing. Laminate flooring requires dry or damp mopping or a vacuuming, but otherwise retains its look without too much intervention on your part. Don't ever install hardwood flooring in an area which is not environmentally controlled. The wood will expand and contract radically when in non-controlled conditions. For hardwood, this spells disaster - warping, cupping, the works! The great thing is, laminate flooring has really come a long way in terms of look. You can get laminate flooring which looks almost exactly like solid hardwood - even a "handscraped" look, or a beveled edge effect. And you still get that look without having to worry about the practicalities of maintaining a natural product in a less-than-friendly environment when it comes to extreme conditions. Whatever you choose to do, enjoy your new floor!

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Q. My parents and I are re-modeling parts of our home and we'd like to know what kind of laminate wood flooring could be used on a concrete floor. Glue or glueless? Bear in mind that my parents are both home improvement people (Dad is a roofing supervisor; Mom works as a dept. manager for a local indie hardware store). However, they are open to advice and suggestions from others on what kind of laminate wood flooring to use on concrete floors.

A. Glue down laminate is obsolete now. They are all what they call ''floating'' floors now. Any major brand will suffice. You may just want to look and see how easy the planks go together before deciding. Some brands have a foam backing with a moisture barrier already glued to the back of them and some require that you buy the foam in a roll that has to be laid down first. Obviously the real cheap stuff is going to feel like walking on cardboard and the pricier stuff will feel like real wood. No laminate is intended for a full bathroom where water/moisture from a tub or shower is present.

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Q. I've seen this on a show once where they put the flooring (laminate) flush up against the cabinets, rather than doing all floors first THEN putting in cabinets. I think it was just for their demo purposes, but i'm wondering if that's okay to do? or will it look bad?

A. Over the years this question has come up with many of the home owners I have remodeled kitchens for. There are a few rules of thumb to take into account. First whenever you have the opportunity to install new cabinets where a new laminate floor is going to be installed there are problems with installing the floor under the cabinets. Most newer laminate floors are meant to be allowed to move. With varying degrees of humidity and fluctuating room temperature changes, expanding and contracting can take place and if you lock the floor under the cabinets, you will prevent the floor from doing what is natural. It would seem then that the solution would be to install the flooring up against the cabinets. However keep in mind that whenever you install the floor up against the cabinets, you will loose countertop height. That is, if your countertops were set at 36" off the floor and you install a 1/2" flooring up against the cabinets, now your countertops will be 35 1/2" from the new laminate flooring. This may not seem like much, but if you are tall, every little bit height counts. The solution that I have always used was to install plywood the same thickness as the flooring under the cabinets and then install the flooring up against the plywood edges. Now you will install a shoe mold or other molding over top of the new laminate floor, but make sure you attach the molding to the cabinets and not the floor. This again, will allow the flooring to move without restriction. With the molding installed up against the cabinets it will cover up any signs that there is plywood under the cabinets. Another thing to note is that when you install the flooring it is best to give it a little clearance from the walls and cabinets and again make sure that when you install the molding, nail it to the walls, baseboard or cabinets and not to the flooring. You can find out more about flooring installations and techniques, by clicking on the following link. http://www.showroom411.com/dir/how-to/floor-coverings-how-to.html Plus, check out some great flooring videos on the subject as well by clicking on the following link. http://www.showroom411.com/dir/videos/floor-covering-video-library-links.html I hope this will help you out. Rick

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Q. We have tile looking vinyl flooring right now. I love my floor but it has to go to add new cabinets, extra wall cabinets and a middle cabinet island. What have others did for their flooring that is easy and not too expensive. We have a good solid wood surface under (1) layer of vinyl flooring to work with. Thanks for any help and answers......

A. Dont go too cheap.....home depot or lowes has closeout tile (usually less than 1$ a sq.) really east to install and will last forever, and when you do a project like that yourself you will be proud!

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Q. We aren't sure if our flooring should match the cabinets or be the color of the dark grain. Our furniture is dark so I want to pull it all together if possible. Also the grain in our cabinets is pretty busy so should we do a calmer grain pattern in the floor? Thanks!

A. Choose the darker grain color in a very plain pattern. that way it will match well and not give you a migraine. if it's really dark use your best judgement and ask a friend for advice. try to get several floor samples the color you like and several a couple shades darker or lighter.

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Q. We are putting down the board like laminate wood flooring that snaps together & have been told it is easy to do . Does anyone know how to do it? We could use your help.

A. Hello, Just follow instructions that are on every pack, Tools needed , Fine tooth saw, square, ammer, stanley knife for scribing the line to be cut,rule and pencil, and common sense. Some you just snap together by hand, others have a driving tool to knock the laminate joints into one another. Just take your time, make sure before jointing up as to take apart again will damage laminate. Go for it.

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Q. I have an invalid living in my house. He sometimes cannot control his bowels and makes a mess in the floor. I currently have carpet over hardwood floor. I need the carpet to be taken out and want to find some sort of flooring that can be mopped with Clorox or Lysol in water to destroy odor. I would like to avoid any type of flooring that would have to be glued to the hardwood. It appears that all vinyl flooring has to glued down. Does anyone have any idea what I can put over the hardwood that will stand up to some serious cleaning?

A. Try laminate flooring, it is easy to install by locking the pieces together like a puzzle and it floats(needs no glue). It also cleans like a dream, we just got it and love it. You can get the kind that looks like wood or tile. We have the ceramic tile type and it really looks like tile. GL!

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Q. I am about to have some vinyl flooring fitted in my kitchen and would grateful for any suggestions as to what I can use for cushioning and to try and keep the floor as warm as possible under foot. I have had vinyl flooring before and it is still hard and cold when standing on the flooring. I have even tried cork tiles and this did not seem to make a huge difference. Would a laminate and wood flooring underlay be suitable or would this be a waste of time? I should add that I am in the UK.

A. An idea, There is a product by DRIcore subfloor which is designed to be put over concrete floors in basements, playrooms etc, this may be something you would want to look into, it would serve all your needs. Lowes carries this by the way, here's a link to the DRIcore website http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

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